Australian-run Lantana built a bonzer reputation for its brunches, quickly expanding into adjacent premises. More recently the expansion has been in time, rather than space, with the advent of evening dining at ‘Shindig’. Here the “cosy and rustic” café – wooden tables, a coffee counter – is given night-time appeal by tea lights and a short, serious drinks list. Customers familiar with the daytime offering of high-quality breakfasts (from muesli to slow-braised beans with egg, chorizo and spinach) and Pacific Rim lunches (duck burger with kimchi mayo, say) can now tuck into a concise surf and turf dinner menu. Our baby back ribs were succulent and sticky, and a side of ‘hush puppies’ (corncakes with chilli mayo) made an indulgent feast – though a dish of octopus, squid and chorizo with smoked corn was variable. For pud, a large slab of chocolate brownie brought us back to café culture: underlined by excellent coffee.