Kanada-Ya St Giles

This swish, compact ramen bar is permanently packed, with Japanese diners predominating – rarely will you manage to bag a perch without queueing first. The reason? Kanada-Ya’s noodles are made on the premises, the silky pork stock is so rich that it could sustain you for several days, and every single added extra is of impeccable quality: from the sticky-yolked hanjuku egg and the intense, inky-black garlic sauce to the crisp sheaf of nori garnishing your bowl. Despite the simplicity of the pine and white interior and the informality of the low stools, narrow counters and communal tables, the dining room manages to look smarter and more sophisticated than most London ramen dives, perhaps due to its clean lines and flattering statement lighting. Don’t expect to linger here, though: you’ll be given the evil eye by the waiting hordes.