Boqueria Tapas first emerged during the tapas craze of the 2010s, and from its corner by Battersea Park Station, it’s been offering friendly service and accessible Catalan cooking ever since. The interiors are equally welcoming, but despite the homely wicker baskets, wooden floorboards, and low lighting, Boqueria also manages to strike a contemporary pose. Lamp-lit counters offer a space for casual drinks and light bites, while sleek wood-finished tables illuminated by moulded glass lights quickly stack up with plates of boquerones, jamon, and Padron peppers.
Things kick off with a selection of croquetas, including jamon, cheese, and truffle varieties. Each one is a warm, satisfying bite. Truffle croquetas, in particular, demonstrate a commendable restraint, bringing an earthy umami richness without overwhelming the delicate mushroom centre. They’re joined by a dense oniony tortilla plated with a smear of green ali oli, and fried aubergine batons drizzled in honey.
Not all classics hit the mark. Appearing on the menu as a speciality with a £16 price tag, pulpo a la Gallega, arrives chewy, swimming in oil and marred by a burnt bitterness. Under the same header, suckling pig, its skin crunchy and meat tender, is undermined by a scoop of lime sorbet. Though well executed, the latter serves more as a puzzling distraction than a supportive companion. And yet, vindication comes in the form of garlicky prawns, succulent and sweet with a pleasant chilli kick. It’s followed by a rewarding slice of burnt Basque cheesecake, complete with a supple, velvety centre and textured edge.
Billed as an authentic tapas restaurant and inspired by the markets of Barcelona, this isn’t a restaurant adept at revelations and reinventions. But if you root yourself in the familiar small plates territory on the left side of the menu, as an affordable neighbourhood restaurant Boqueria does well. The kind best suited to casual glasses of wine with plates of charcuterie, laid-back dates and low-stakes family gatherings.