Tour De France 2014
STAGE 1 Leeds to Harrogate, Saturday 5 July
Yorkshire pubs adopting French noms de plume; yellow bicycles and jerseys everywhere; teams of Lycra-clad pedalling enthusiasts on our roads: yes, Le Tour de France is coming to town. Making its
first visit to the UK since 2007, this bike-fest and supreme sporting challenge is taking over parts of England for three ‘stages’ and is sure to be a huge crowd-puller – even though national
treasure Sir Bradley Wiggins isn’t competing.
Stage 1 begins on Saturday 5 July when the whole shebang assembles on the Headrow, opposite Leeds Art Gallery. After that, the tour caravan and peloton heads north through Otley (home to Olympic
cycling silver medallist Lizzie Armitstead), then on to Skipton, past Aysgarth Falls, through Wensleydale, ending with a sprint finish to Harrogate’s West Park. For full details, visit www.letour.yorkshire.com.
Here are our top picks for eating and drinking along the route – plus a few promising detours for good measure. Note that many places will be extending their opening hours during the Tour. Also
check road closures in the area.
Epernay Champagne Bar, Leeds
What better way to celebrate Le Grand Départ than with a glass or two of bubbly. Stylish, cool and contemporary – with an indoor courtyard to boot – Epernay has a fine stock of quality Champagne
from more than 20 houses, with loads by the glass. Otherwise dip into the 70-strong cocktail list or the decent selection of wines.
Once the cyclists are
on their way, it’s time to consider lunch: we’d recommend Brasserie Forty 4, the Crafthouse (pictured, right), and its sibling Angelica, in the Trinity Leeds shopping complex or the local outpost of the glamorous Gaucho steakhouse group.
Ilkley Moor Vaults, Ilkley
Reinvigorated by current hosts Joe and Elizabeth McDermott, this cracking boozer is now an appealing mix of flagstone floors, open fires, beams and contemporary kitsch. Charcuterie and other
delicacies from the smokehouse go well with pints of Timothy Taylor Landlord. The pub is offering all-day street food to mark Le Tour.
For something more extravagant, try booking a table at the Michelin-starred Box Tree nearby.
The Fleece, Addingham
Trencherman helpings of ‘Yorkshire pub done proper’ are just one attraction at this handsome vine-covered hostelry, and the owners also champion locally brewed beers. Tour events include a food
marquee, a Laurent-Perrier Champagne bar, live music and cakes from the in-house deli. Stage 2 is also due to pass through the village.
Le Bistro des Amis, Skipton
Enjoy some Gallic ooh-la-la at Luc Daguzan’s thoroughly patriotic French bistro, where the kitchen rolls out bourgeois classics such as confit duck, Gruyère tart and beef bourguignon. Don’t miss
the counter loaded with ripe cheeses from Rungis market or the fine choice of pastis behind the bar. You can also drop by for coffee and snacks.
Alternatively try Le Caveau – an international bistro in vaulted cellars beneath Skipton’s award-winning High
Street.
The Angel Inn, Hetton (pictured, right)
A pioneering hostelry and gastropub trailblazer, this landmark country inn celebrated its 30th birthday in 2013. Eat in the bar, brasserie or restaurant from menus loaded with Yorkshire produce and
bright, contemporary ideas. The Angel is also renowned for its connoisseur’s wine list and boutique accommodation. Be warned: it’s perpetually rammed.
Calverts Restaurant, Hawes
Wensleydale is synonymous with cheese, so this famous creamery, museum and all-round tourist attraction is a must-visit. The family-friendly restaurant offers a chance to sample the stuff on its
home turf, alongside a host of other regional specialities. Kids have their own Wallace & Gromit menu, and there’s a coffee shop too.
The Sandpiper Inn, Leyburn
Perfectly positioned on Leyburn’s ancient Market Place, this sprucely restored 17th-century inn has been tended by members of the Harrison family for more than 15 years and is now a foodie
destination. Expect fine-tuned seasonal cooking with an Anglo-European slant, backed by real ales, well-chosen wines and a nifty little tapas menu.
Also try The Blue Lion at East Witton, on the road to Masham.
The Black Sheep Brewery, Masham
Masham’s boozy claim to fame, Black Sheep was set up by Paul Theakston (part of the local brewing dynasty) and is now a Mecca for tourists as well as the CAMRA brigade. Honest Yorkshire fare is the
deal in the bistro, and there’s a proper pub for those who fancy sampling the full range of ales. Be prepared for ‘Le Grand Party’ on race weekend.
Alternatively, if you’re suffering from the post-Glastonbury blues, head out to the Bivouac Café nestled among the
meadow yurts and woodland shacks at Druid’s Temple.
The Bruce Arms, West Tanfield
Flagstone floors, real ales, cheering fires, contemporary artwork and food from a chef/proprietor with a starry CV – welcome to the stone-built Bruce Arms. Expect quirky ideas, gussied-up classics
and eclectic dishes along the lines of chickpea, sweet potato and pumpkin tagine. Desirable accommodation and terrific breakfasts too.
Lockwoods Cafébar & Restaurant, Ripon (pictured, right)
A family-run winner, young-at-heart Lockwoods delivers a bright, lively something-for-everyone menu ranging from ‘piggy bits’ and mezze boards to burgers, risottos and confit lamb shoulder with
dhal – plus some splendidly comforting puds. Don’t miss Lockwoods’ special Tour de France exhibition or the restaurant’s jaunty race-themed mural.
The Old Deanery, opposite Ripon’s awe-inspiring cathedral, is also worth a punt.
The Boars Head, Ripley
The hereditary owners of nearby Ripley Castle created this French-style village in the 1830s and the local pub now operates as a foodie destination with its own bistro and personally curated wine
list. Produce from the estate features heavily on the menus. There will be bags of Tour-related entertainment and events in the grounds of the castle itself.
Bettys, Harrogate
This is the original branch of Bettys, founded in 1919 by a certain Frederick Belmont. These days, the name is synonymous with old-fashioned Yorkshire generosity, with the emphasis on glorious
home-baked cakes, pastries, breads and tasty savouries. Bettys will be celebrating the race in grand style with lots of new specialities. Unmissable, but be prepared to queue.
If you fancy finishing with a splash of French joie de vivre, try the elegant little Mirabelle restaurant.
Otherwise, raid the North Country larder at Fodder on the Great Yorkshire Showground.
Also see our guides of where to eat for the other Tour de France stages:
Stage 2: York to Sheffield
Stage 3: Cambridge to London
By David Mabey. Published 1 July 2014.