When news that Philip Howard was selling The Square broke, London’s diners awaited his next move with keen anticipation. So too did the capital’s top chefs, for alongside his culinary brilliance, Howard has become an epoch-defining restaurateur. Would he, could he, succeed again? The opening of Elystan Street has answered that question with a definitive yes.
Phil Howard (seated), Rebecca Mascarenhas and team receive their award from BMW’s Peter Walker (centre) and Squaremeal editor Ben McCormack
We were completely seduced by the intense flavours, the sublime technique and the deft execution here. Yet this is no stuffy temple to haute cuisine but, much like the man behind it, an unshowy venue devoted to teasing the utmost pleasure out of prime ingredients. Simple assemblies hold sway; the artistry is understated, but no less dazzling for that. Here’s to hoping Elystan Street helps define the next decade of top-end neighbourhood dining in London. We believe it will.
Read our full review and find out more about Elystan Street here.
The runners-up
Anglo, Clerkenwell (above)
Co-cheffed by two young rising stars, Mark Jarvis (ex-Le Manoir) and Jack Cashmore (ex-Sat Bains), Anglo excels with its bargain tasting menus
Clipstone, Fitzrovia
Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson magics up creative globally inspired sharing plates, pizzas and a bistro vibe at Portland’s relaxed new sibling
Counter Culture, Clapham
Perch at the counter to savour totally on-trend tapas at this tiny temple to inventive cooking, courtesy of The Dairy’s Robin Gill
Som Saa, Shoreditch
A hot ticket in a converted warehouse, this venture from trio Andy Oliver, Mark Dobbie and Tom George brings bona fide, often fiery, Thai cooking to Spitalfields
To view our previous winners take a look at our BMW Squaremeal Award Hall of Fame.
Award portrait by Laurie Fletcher
This article was published 7 November 2016